It did originally start out as just one knife, the chef's knife. Then I started getting requests.
As much as I'd like to say one knife can rule them all, it's simply not true. If you want to quickly halve a strawberry for your breakfast, you'll grab a paring knife. Or if you want to slice some bread, a chef's knife is going to be difficult.
And this doesn't even go into chopping styles, knife sizes and a million other things.
So it should be "Your Last Knives", but knife has a better ring to it.
I just make the handles myself.
I've spent a lot of trial and error finding the best factory to make the knives to my exacting standards. I'm a chef by trade, and am very fussy with what I want and would use. I want you to have the best, and if I made them that wouldn't be the case. This way, you get the best blade, with a custom designed handle, in under a month.
This is an actual response I've gotten, and something that internet trolls like to bring up. So I thought I should add it here.
I've got a lot of respect for bladesmiths, they put a lot of effort into their craft. Some will put 40+ hours into each blade, sitting over an anvil and hammering away to create gorgeous damascus patterns.
But that's the problem. The customer needs to pay for the 40+ hours of work that goes into the blade.
It's a price I could never pay myself, and I'd never expect my customers to do the same.
Metallurgy is a science, not a craft.
You blend exact amounts of metals together, heat them to an exact point, roll/press them out to straighten the grain structure, heat treat, and wham, you have a knife steel. Hammering a railway spike flat, heat treating it and sharpening it doesn't make a great knife. It'll be soft and have rubbish edge retention.
But expensive machinery is what makes this process cheap and repeatable.
You can spend 30 minutes on a bandsaw or angle grinder, cutting out a knife blank, or an industrial stamping machine can out of the profile in seconds.
You can eyeball a knife bevel on a belt grinder, and carefully grind it out, or clamp it into a grinding machine that'll cut the perfect bevel in a fraction of the time.
Stainless Damascus is also a rare thing to make in a home forge. It requires very precise heat, and a lack of oxygen. Forging that in anything less than a vacuum forge is very difficult.
And that's where economies of scale kick in perfectly, one knife using this equipment is very expensive, a thousand isn't. As long as the place that's making them has very high standards, and don't cut corners, the end result is fantastic.
If you google what's the best knife steel, you'll go into a deep dark hole of 'opinions'. There is a lot of them, and they conflict a lot. So I'm going to stick with my personal experience being a chef for 16+ years.
I went through the majority of my chef apprenticeship with Wusthof knives. It's a popular German knife brand, and back in the day they were the best you could get.
However, they had problems. Edge retention wasn't great (handles gave blisters too, but talking about steel here).
You can upgrade to fancier high carbon steels like 52100 (used by a lot of very good bladesmiths). That's a great knife steel, it'll take and hold a brilliant edge. However, it's a reactive steel, so you cut a lemon and leave it on your chopping board for 10 seconds, you'll have rust on the blade and that is an instant no from me.
Which brings me to the steel I use. It's a Japanese style steel, VG10. It's a high carbon steel, so you get the edge retention of the 52100 steel, but it's got metals like nickel added, which add to the rust resistance. It's a hard steel, rockwell 60-62, takes a great edge and holds it well, and is brilliant to use.
This is one of those how long is a piece of string questions.
When I was working in commercial kitchens, chopping 25+kg of carrots a day (among other things), I could go for 6 months without needing them to be hit with a stone.
But you do need to keep the edge honed, which I don't count as sharpening.
If you look at the steel under a microscope, after a bit of use, you'll see the micro bevel of the knife start to bend to one side or another. If it's bent too far, you're pushing that bent edge through the food, and it'll feel blunter.
Swiping that edge along a simple honing rod will straighten that micro bevel, and the knife will cut easily again.
If you let it go too long without honing, the edge will bend over completely, and you'll need a stone to correct it.
I also do free sharpening if you bring the knife back to me.
I don't overly promote it because of the distance involved. I ship Australia and Worldwide. Getting them back to me in Adelaide can be difficult.
But if you're in Adelaide, sure, drop them off to me and I'll sharpen away. It's a quick job with the right equipment. I also like to see how the knives I made a wearing, and give the handles a quick polish.
Well, they won't explode or anything, but it's really not recommended.
With mine specifically. The high heat and steam in a dishwasher will cause the timber to expand and come away from the epoxy. The finish will yellow and peel off, and they'll just look like crap.
The caustic detergents will also cause micro pitting, which will encourage rusting.
Over time, the high heat will also mess with the blade temper, which will soften the steel and take away the edge retention.
A two second hand wash with some detergent is all they need.
I hate blisters, and the calluses I'd get after that. I've had some knives that'd rub my hands raw after a bit of use.
So I make my handles with that in mind. I make a nice curve, so they cup in your hand very nicely, feel nice, and work nice.
However, I do custom handles, so you want a different style, just ask.
The handles are also coated with a clear 2 pac finish (two chemicals combined to harden into a hard finish, like epoxy). This means they are completely water tight, last well and don't need any maintenance.
I dream of a bigger shed. A room for just sanding the handles would be brilliant. I could shut the door and keep the dust off everything else, that would be magical.
But yes, I'm making these in my single car shed (although I did build on a spray room for the finish).
It's in the plans to eventually move into a bigger property, and build a workshop, where I can employ extra people and expand. It would be magical.
Check out some of my facebook videos, you can see the levels of dust on the walls :)
Sure do. I'm based in Adelaide Australia, and have sent them to pretty much every country by now.
Only thing to note is that you are responsible for your local taxes and duties.
I've got mostly free shipping Australia wide. I add on $10 for bulky items like the knife rolls.
Internationally is a flat rate, $15 with a little extra for the bulky items like the knife rolls.
If you've ordered something from my shop that's ready made, I'll ship it same or next day, depending on when I get the order.
For custom orders, I write in the description on how long it usually takes.
Please note however, it's a two man show. If a certain toddler contracts the latest daycare plague, and wipes out the whole house, production gets slow because there is nobody else to take over.
Same again if I try and chop off my leg again with another flying knife.
This is becoming an annoying trend, and I've decided to do a blanket ban on it.
If there is a fault on any of my products. I provide free shipping slips (in Australia) to get the product back to me, I'll fix up any issues, or remake the entire knife and post it back again.
I've had a few people I've called on it, and there hasn't been a single issue on the knife and they just wanted a discount. So blanket ban on discounts after the product is received.
I happily take back any knife that isn't liked and will give a full refund.
Just post it back to me, and once it's received, I'll send the refund. I like to keep it simple, and don't want people unhappy with something I've made.
I used to have a more complicated return policy on design your own knives, but it's an extremely rare occasion that I've needed to give a refund so I decided to simplify it.